Chinese Buyer Shops And Showroom Are Becoming More And More.

On the 17 day of this month, the designer brand deepmoss released micro-blog, saying its design was "copied" by the Shenzhen brand Zanlia and we were "copied" products hanging on one of the Mode Shanghai costumes exhibition, one of the Showroom exhibited and accepted the order.

Despite the fact that there is a specific infringement to be decided, or even no result, the incident has once again exposed the true level of handling and service capabilities of Shanghai fashion week, which once washed the brand onto T, exaggerated propaganda and humiliated the public's intelligence quotient.

The fashion week with Chinese characteristics is less and less disappointed. However, the industry chain of designer brand, buyer shop and Showroom involved in these conflicts is facing a rare opportunity to develop under the luxury market and the elimination of traditional local brands.

Even if the Shanghai fashion week does not lose much to the industry, but if the soil for the survival and development of the new generation of Chinese designers is still rotten and childish, then the fashion industry may only continue to "create" dozens or even hundreds of years for China, instead of calling for more than a decade of "creation".

In the retail industry, there are companies that specialize in the management of letters of credit, especially foreign trade and import and export businesses. However, according to Tang Xiaotang, founder of No Agency, there are few applications in buyer shops, usually in procurement and distribution agreements. Most of them may be resolved through mutual negotiation, but not through third party insurance.

BOTH (both fashion) Acting brand director Shawn Yuan, BOTH Showroom is precisely based on the above industry status to introduce the "financial letter of credit management" service. "Showroom has more advantages than financial institutions. Besides, we own supply chain and buyer shop, also can reduce the breach of contract, let the buyer shop and our Showroom cooperation brand need not worry."

BOTH (both fashions), such a strong professional and experienced retail and trading company and its BOTH Showroom professional Showroom will undoubtedly help Chinese designer brand market more mature, professional and standardized. Only with the maturity of the market, the relevant industries in the industry chain are all professional, can we achieve the goal of independent industry.

Although the statement "deepmoss does not solve the problem of infringement will no longer take part in the fashion week in Shanghai" is rather cold. However, in September 10th, Beijing's landmark Sanlitun Taigu, which competed with a number of internationally renowned brands and retail companies, and experienced 5 years of market baptism, the confidence of the original local buyer shop BNC reloading and upgrading to the Chinese designer brand market is undoubtedly more willing to see.

In 2010, Hong Huang founded the buyer's shop Brand New China Mint glutinous green onion (BNC) in Beijing, mainly acting as a Chinese designer brand. At that time, the most prosperous moment of China's luxury market, a group of Chinese designers returned to establish their own brands in the western learning. Buyers and independent designer brands quickly became the two most popular concepts in China's fashion industry, relying on Hong Huang's huge influence and steering magazine's iLook.

By 2015, according to NoAgency, an industry research consultancy, the Chinese market had about 120 buyer shops, with a scale of about 25, and a variety of designer brands were innumerable. Hong Huang undoubtedly had the founder role in the development of China's new fashion industry.

Beginning in 2013, another new thing, "Showroom", began to sprout up in China. In the past two years, about 20 Showroom appeared in China, mainly in the north and the third largest cities, and mainly in Shanghai.

This is the background of the deepmoss brand's dissatisfaction with social media's fashion week and industry in Shanghai. Mode Shanghai is an additional activity that is mainly aimed at customers in Shanghai fashion week.

Tang Xiaotang, founder of No Agency, the industry research and consulting organization, said that the emergence of Showroom can be said to be at the right moment, to build bridges between Chinese local designers and buyer shops. Some other brands with small space in the foreign market can also enter China through Showroom to meet the higher personal pursuit of the Chinese market and some new rich people, and at the same time to promote more exchanges. However, the tradition of "big business" and "quick money" has made the industry a bit divorced from reality for many years. "Really, like BNC, Showroom is still too small for the industry to be interested and ambitious, so the quantity is prosperous but not real."

But things are changing.

With China's first rich and the new rich class's weakening demand for Logo brand, they are creating another market with great spending power. Although such designer brand market has not been able to compare with the mass clothing and luxury goods industry for a long time, there is no doubt that the market is also amazing by virtue of over 100 million of China's middle class and its purchasing power, so some companies with deep background in the industry have begun investing in it.

In the early January 2015, the fashion of ATX, a Singapore manufacturing and trading comprehensive enterprise, landed in Shanghai with the first project of Showroom. BOTH Showroom is located in the Plaza of Heng lung, which has been displayed for a long time.

Obviously, with the financial strength and industry experience and resources of the group, BOTH Showroom has been established to facilitate the short distance renting of venues in the fashion season or the Showroom of renting residential areas, and has quickly become one of the most professional Showroom in China.

In October 19th, at the 2016 spring and summer static exhibition and designers' sharing meeting held by BOTH Showroom, Shawn Yuan, the brand director of BOTH (fashion fashion), accepted the interview with no fashion Chinese net.

He said that ATX has been closely observing the Chinese market and made many surveys, "three years ago when the time was ripe, the matter was deployed."

BOTH (both fashions) not only owns BOTH Showroom, but also includes buyer's shop BOTH Boutique, self-employed designer brand BOTH shoes based on men's shoes, and online B2C store.

"This set of projects basically covers the main deployment of the new designer's brand market, backed by ATX's supply chain, product development and brand management. We believe that very few enterprises can take all of them in a short time. At present, we observe that the Chinese market is mostly operated by a single project, with a maximum of two."

For the one-time huge investment in these projects, Shawn Yuan is optimistic about the demand for emerging brands in the Chinese market and consumers.

Bag accessories brand from Ukraine

Designer Konstantin Kofta lamented the acceptance of Chinese consumers far beyond his imagination in the interview with no fashion Chinese.

KOFTA, founded in 2012, is now available in China's BOTH Boutique, MSPECTOR, Water Stone and other stores, and its retail price is 2500-16000 yuan.

KOFTA is also one of the brands of BOTH Showroom agency. Konstantin Kofta said that choosing BOTH Showroom is a professional and perfect service. "All the middle links, including goods, pportation, customs clearance, documents and so on, have been solved". These are the worries of buyers.

ShawnYuan, acting brand director of BOTH, said that as a trading platform like Showroom, the most important thing is service, helping brands and buyers grow together and expand the market. "Choosing a professional Showroom for brands or buyers may be equal to 1-3 years of rapid growth."

It is said that BOTH Showroom currently adopts the original "2+3" value system, "2" is "brand management" and "supply chain management", and "3" is the brand promotion, "financial letter of credit management" and "price advantage" that match the two.

Shawn Yuan Yuan said frankly that if there is no group backing, it is difficult for BOTH Showroom to do all of the above mentioned points.

And Chinese buyer shops.

The emergence of a large number of emerging markets is exactly the opposite. The European market is declining. This year, more than 10 CorsoComo of the famous Italy buyer shop came out of the bankruptcy of the entity Dieci Srl. Before that, Browns, the landmark buying shop in London, also chose to commit itself to the fashion business Farfetch, and many other new small fashion brands, such as Band of Outsiders, chose bankruptcy because they could not make ends meet.

For the above contrasting situation, Tang Xiaotang, founder of No Agency, said that the history of European buyer shops has nurtured a large number of designer brands, but now the big brands are becoming more and more powerful, and the economic environment is pressing local consumption and rents increase year by year, leading to the fact that buyers and small brands are basically unable to survive. This situation has promoted many brands into the Chinese market, and many Chinese people who have studied in Europe or have worked in the fashion industry have begun to do such "intermediary" work to promote some international brands to China.

However, Tang Xiaotang said that such a situation, because of the limitations of intermediaries itself, is often limited to brand promotion, which is not conducive to the long term development of brands in China. International brands still need to find Showroom or buying shop agents who can develop together. If there is interest binding, they can really develop together, while those receiving Showroom "booth fees" or promotion fees are more difficult to have long-term cooperation.

(both fashion) agent brand director ShawnYuan said the company's previous surveys were similar to those of Tang Xiaotang. Chinese consumers are still dominated by international brands, and BOTH Showroom is currently focusing mainly on international brands, including Japanese brands.

On the 19 day of the designers' sharing meeting, BOTH Showroom invited the designer of the Japanese brand gene par YUKIO MISHIBA, the three agent Yukio and the designer of the British brand CONSISTENCE Tien Lu and Fang Fang to communicate with a crowd of buyers and industry people.

The famous department store Lane Crawford Lafayette Shanghai store opened an unprecedented three brands of Chinese women's wear designers, while Galeries Lafayette, Lafayette department store and e-commerce Yoox have worked with Chinese designers when they entered the Chinese market.

According to No Agency, the market size of Chinese designer brands in 2030 will be estimated to exceed 100 billion yuan.

100 billion of the "cake" is attractive to all industries in the industry chain, but it still needs collective efforts from the industry to dedicate the most perfect aspect to consumers, rather than disputes such as deepmoss during the fashion week in Shanghai.

In fact, not only is the imitation and infringement of the Chinese market a chronic disease affecting the development of emerging brand industries, but other problems have also begun to be exposed gradually.

According to a partner of a buyer's shop in Beijing, no fashion Chinese net has revealed that in the process of cooperation with some designers, it is easy to fail to fulfill orders on time and quality.

The industry, who asked for anonymity, said that since there were no fixed cooperative supply chains, and in general, orders were not large enough to seek strict control over the manufacturing plants. Therefore, the main problem in the process of cooperation is the continuous collaboration between buyers and designers.